The best part of 10 years off the radar. I've missed it but didn't know that I did.
The search, the waves, the friends. "Life" takes over - work, family, money...stability? All things that in some regards surfing is the antithesis of.
It's time to reprioritise the truly important things. Death has a way of doing that. I feel renewed; New board, new camera. I've been gripped again.
What better way to dust off the cobwebs than to beat the low winter sun out of bed and track a big Northerly swell down to arguably one of the most photogenic bays in the North East. Middle's doing its thing, March 2023.
Live the dash -